
Didrik Johnck emptying the toilet at Ama Dablam base camp. Photo Luis Benitez © 2000.
Lesson 24 // Jobs on the Mountain
Jobs on the Mountain
There are many jobs that need to be done on the mountain in order for the expedition to run smoothly.
- Expedition Leader
- Sirdar - Lead Sherpa
- Team Physician
- Climbers
- Base Camp Manager
- Camp Cook
- Camp Baker and Pastry Chef
Expedition Leader
Our expedition leader is Pasquale Scaturro from Denver, Colorado. For over a year now, Pasquale has been in charge of putting the entire expedition together. He has conducted our team meetings, put together our budget, itineraries for travel and climbing, contacted sponsorships, etc. While we are on the mountain he will be in charge of the climbing schedule. He will make the “calls” on the mountain as to when we move or stay put, which gear and supplies need to be where and when, plus many others.
Sirdar – Lead Sherpa
Khami Sherpa is our lead Shirpa or Sirdar and he is from Nepal. He will be in charge of all the sherpa that will be a part of our expedition. The shirpa will carry loads for us, set up camps, fix the climbing ropes, cook, and hopefully give us some back rubs and messages! They are very important on the mountain and extremely strong climbers.
Team Physician
Our team doctor is Steve Gipe from Bozeman, Montana. He will monitor the health conditions of all the members of the expedition while on the mountain. He has already given us important information about the proper shots and medication we will need to take before we leave and while we are on the expedition. He will take care of any accidents or other medical emergencies if needed during the climb.
Climbers
All of the climbers will be in charge of setting up camps, hauling loads, setting up fixed lines, routed finding and doing some of the cooking, especially hire up on the mountain. They will not only provide support for our team but other teams as well, if needed.
Base Camp Manager
I, along with Maurice Perot, will be the base camp manager for the expedition. The following duties are the responsibility of the base camp manager.
Financial Officer While in Base Camp
Payment of all team expenses while in base camp. This will be done out of a cash box that is kept with local currency.
This may include:
- Payment to Sherpas for returning oxygen bottles
- Payment of mail runner
- Purchasing additional puja items (juniper bush, incense etc)
- Purchasing additional items such as medicine, food, beer soda
Anything team needs while in base camp and costs money, payment is handled by
base camp manager.
Oversight of All Food Supplies & Equipment
- Weekly restocking of necessary food items (fresh food, drinks etc.)
- Daily (or as needed) inventory of food supplies to ensure the camp is well stocked, but not over or under. Dining tent should always have enough snacks, tea, etc. within easy grasp.
- Organize all equipment and food for movement up mountain.
- Assist with menu for Sherpa cooks.
Oversight of Sherpa Health Issues and Assistance with Team Health Issues
- Ensuring that Sherpas and cooks or anyone associated with food preparation is following proper hygiene to ensure food does not get contaminated.
- Ensuring that eating area is always CLEAN and ready for the next meal.
- These can be accomplished getting the Sherpas into a habit of being clean with the food and eating areas.
- Ensuring that water (preferably warm) and soap are always available for hand washing prior to eating or entering the dining tent.
- Ensuring that the cooking areas are kept clean and free of rotting food or other debris.
- Ensuring the proper filtration of team cooking and drinking water.
General Camp Maintenance
- Periodic maintenance of all tents to prevent high winds from knocking them down. This consists of checking the guy wires and keeping them taught as they tend to loosen from the glacial movement.
- Maintenance of power generation equipment. If we use a generator, this includes supervision of the transfer of fuel (using a filter system) from the transportation containers to the camp storage containers. Checking the fuel level and topping off when needed.
- If we use solar, you will be taught how to use the system.
- Charging of 12-volt batteries.
- Repair equipment as necessary.
Communications
- Maintain Base Camp communications with team members at higher camps.
- Maintain communications with agent in Kathmandu.
- Keep log of daily team activities.
- Monitor weather dispatches.
- Collect outgoing mail for runner.
Environmental
- Maintain log of environmental accomplishments; i.e., number of oxygen bottles, fuel canisters, amount of garbage collected.
Other Duties
- Writing weekly dispatches on team progress for the Nepalese Liaison Officer, writing the summit report and the final expedition report.
- Dealing with independent trekkers who wander into camp.
- General camp security.
- Liaison with other teams.
- Coordinate "getting off mountain" needs of climbers/staff when needed.
Camp Cook
The camp cook will be one of the Sherpa. They are responsible for keeping our bodies fueled and our bellies plump! They will prepare all of our meals at base camp and again at camp two, which is our Advance Base Camp. Hot tea with yak milk is always nice to have first thing in the morning!
Camp Baker and Pastry Chef
Reba Bull, the wife of climber Brad Bull, will also be a base camp manager. Reba is a high school Spanish teacher in Denver, Colorado and will provide our team with some incredible food baked in a solar oven.